New Law Requires Professional Cosmetics Labels to List Ingredients

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Professional cosmetics sold in California must have full ingredient labeling in the same manner as consumer cosmetics, if the products are manufactured after July 1, 2020.  The California legislature unanimously approved AB 2775, introduced by Assembly Member Ash Kalra.  The bill was signed into law by Governor Brown on September 14, 2018 and enacted as new Section 110371 to the Health and Safety Code.

There are over 312,000 professional cosmetologists who are licensed to provide nail and hair services, most often in salons.  The legislature found that “[i]nformation on the ingredients in professional salon products is essential to ensuring that workers and owners can make safer product choices and take steps to protect themselves and their customers against harmful exposures.”

The new law will establish that professional cosmetics must have a label affixed on the container that satisfies all of the labeling requirements for any other cosmetic pursuant to the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (21 U.S.C. Sec. 301, et seq.), and the federal Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (15 U.S.C. Sec. 1451, et seq.).  In other words, professional cosmetics must have the same ingredient labeling as consumer cosmetics.

The law already defines the term “cosmetic” as “any article, or its components, intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body, or any part of the human body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.”  (Health and Safety Code Section 109900)  The newly-enacted law introduces a new definition of “professional cosmetic,” meaning a cosmetic “that is intended or marketed to be used only by a professional on account of a specific ingredient, increased concentration of an ingredient, or other quality that requires safe handling, or is otherwise used by a professional.”  In turn, “professional” is defined for this purpose as “a person that has been granted a license by the State Board of Barbering and Cosmetology to practice in the field of cosmetology, nail care, barbering, or esthetics.”

There is arguably some ambiguity in that the new statute could be read to define a “professional cosmetic” in a circular manner as including a cosmetic that “is … used by a professional.”  Such an ambiguity is not likely a concern in this particular Act.  This is because the effect of this new law is just to require the same type of ingredient labeling for both consumer and professional cosmetics, so it should not matter whether a licensed professional uses a resalable consumer or professional cosmetic for purposes of compliance with this law.  However, if in the future the same definition of “professional” is incorporated into other enactments (much like “the definition of cosmetics” was incorporated here from a different statute), the circular definition may become more problematic.

The new law was enacted with widespread industry support, including the Personal Care Products Council, the Professional Beauty Association, California Chamber of Commerce, and Unilever.  Many manufacturers have already listed product ingredients on their professional cosmetic lines in a manner consistent with that required for retail cosmetics, and so may already be in compliance.  But manufacturers should review their professional cosmetic product labeling well ahead of the July 1, 2020 effective date in order to determine whether they comply.  Further, manufacturers should be aware that there is no specific “professional cosmetic” exception to other warning label requirements, such as Proposition 65, which requires warnings if use of a product on a consumer in California would result in significant exposure to identified chemicals that are known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.

Manufacturers are well-advised to seek qualified counsel to review their circumstances before committing to potentially costly label changes, to be sure they comply with all legal requirements.  Conkle, Kremer & Engel attorneys stay up to date on important regulatory developments affecting their clients in the professional salon products industry, and are ready to help clients apply navigate the changing regulatory landscape in California and elsewhere.

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The Conkle Firm’s “Spa Weekend” at the International Salon and Spa Expo

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On January 27th and 28th, 2018, attorneys from Conkle, Kremer & Engel attended the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE), which is hosted annually by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA).  At ISSE, CK&E attorneys met with clients and other beauty professionals to help them expand their business frontiers and address concerns about intellectual property, regulatory compliance, and  contractual relations.  CK&E attorneys also relished the opportunity to observe first-hand the latest trends and exciting new spa and cosmetic products.

Sheet masks and other Korean beauty products continued to be as popular as they have been in the past few years. But more palpable this year at ISSE was the recent movement towards “inclusive beauty,” emphasizing a range of culturally enlightened products that appeal to a wider range of consumers of different ethnicities, ages, genders and abilities.  Exhibitors displayed a wide range of products intended for people with all skin and hair types and colors.  Many brands showcased hypoallergenic and natural products with few ingredients, suitable for use on consumers with allergies or medical conditions.  There were also more personal care products geared towards men than there have been in previous years.

ISSE offered a wide array of complimentary educational programs related to the beauty industry, including classes regarding the importance of social media presence for artists and brands.  CK&E attorneys remain ready to provide their clients with legal assistance in the ever-changing world of social media by keeping up to date on developments in social media.  At ISSE, attorneys Evan Pitchford and Desiree Ho attended “Getting It Right On Instagram,” a seminar hosted by long-time beauty industry executive and social media guru Gordon Miller, CEO of Hairbrained, an online community for craft hairdressers and colorists to connect and share their work.

For next year, PBA has already announced that it will launch STYL on January 26-28, 2019, a new event that PBA promises is not an expo or convention, but rather “STYL is an experience where the leaders, learners, students, owners and the beauty industry come together from across the country.”

CK&E is proud to be a member of the PBA and other professional beauty organizations, and is delighted to be in its third decade of helping domestic and international businesses of all sizes grow and evolve to meet their goals in an efficient and cost-effective manner.

Desiree Ho, Glen Pacek, Karl Sweis and Evan Pitchford at Sweis Moroccanoil booth

CK&E attorneys Mark Kremer and Amanda Washton sample industry trends at ISSE

Gordon Miller (far right) of Hairbrained moderates Instagram panel

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The Conkle Firm Visits ISSE

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Attorneys from Conkle, Kremer & Engel were on hand as the Professional Beauty Association (PBA) hosted the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE) on January 28th-30th, 2017 at the Long Beach Convention and Entertainment Center.  Tens of thousands of industry professionals attended this year’s ISSE show, which featured booths and displays from hundreds of manufacturers and distributors.  CK&E attorneys were pleased to be able to assist clients and meet with professionals in the beauty industry.  CK&E attorneys particularly focus on helping beauty industry participants develop and grow their businesses, such as by expanding into overseas markets or negotiating with distributors. CK&E attorneys are proud members of the PBA, which advances the professional beauty industry by providing members with education, charitable outreach, government advocacy, events and more.

CK&E Attorneys Zachary Page, Heather Laird, Desiree Ho and Mark Riedel at ISSE

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The Conkle Firm Attends PBA’s International Salon and Spa Expo

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The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) hosted the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE) on January 30th-February 1st, 2016 at the Convention Center in Long Beach, California, and Conkle, Kremer & Engel attorneys were pleased to attend again this year.  CK&E attorneys were glad to be able to meet and consult with clients and other professionals in the beauty industry who want help to develop and grow their businesses.  More than 400 manufacturers and distributors had booths and displays, and the show was attended by thousands of industry professionals. The sponsor of ISSE, the PBA, advances the professional beauty industry by providing members with education, charitable outreach, government advocacy, events and more.  CK&E attorneys are proud members of the PBA.

Pravana at ISSE 2016

Pravana at ISSE 2016

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CK&E Attends ISSE to Help Beauty Industry Clients

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Conkle, Kremer & Engel attorneys recently attended the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE).  Held annually in Long Beach, California in January, ISSE is the biggest beauty expo on the West Coast, and attracts hundreds of beauty industry companies from around the world.  ISSE is sponsored by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA).

CK&E attorneys attended ISSE to meet with beauty industry clients, and to stay abreast of the latest trends and developments in the industry.  Attending trade shows helps CK&E maintain its unparalleled legal expertise on such matters as intellectual property protection, manufacturer-distributor relations and government regulatory and compliance issues that affect personal care product companies.

One highlight of this year’s ISSE was the launch of Glycelene, a line of natural, organic and vegan beauty ointments by CK&E client Borio Beauty.  Glycelene was named to PBA’s “Hot List” of products.  As part of CK&E’s  practice of assisting emerging companies for costs reasonably scaled to their needs, resources and business plans, CK&E helped to protect the Glycelene brand from its inception by initiating federal trademark registration and consulting on the packaging.

The breadth and depth of CK&E’s industry experience allows the firm to accomplish client objectives efficiently and effectively.  CK&E continuously builds on its decades of experience representing client interests in every facet of the personal care product industry by continuing to stay up to date on all matters of concern to its industry clients.

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